Answers to your questions

Your fruiting block needs a few hours of indirect sunlight each day to fruit mushrooms. Find somewhere in your home with enough light to read a book. A kitchen counter that receives indirect sunlight is a great option. Avoid direct sunlight.

Roll the bottom of the humidity tent three times like you would a pant leg. Then, flatten the gussets to form a box. Lastly, place the tent over the fruiting block.

You can also view our demonstration video below.

Leave the block in the plastic bag! The bag helps to keep the block hydrated and humid, which is crucial for fruiting mushrooms.

To form, mushrooms need an environment with high humidity. We recommend generously misting two to four times a day with a spray bottle (or more as needed during winter or in a dry climate). We also recommend using a humidity tent, which we include in our kits.

If you're using a humidity tent, mist the inside walls of the tent.

If you aren't using a humidity tent, mist the "X" you've cut into the bag and the area around the fruiting block. Once mushrooms have started to form, don't spray them directly—just mist near and around them.

If you're also using a hygrometer, aim to keep the humidity between 70% and 90%.

Mushrooms like to move at their own pace! Our best advice: stay patient and continuing caring for your fruiting block. In the unlikely event that your fruiting block doesn't produce mushrooms after two weeks, let us know and we'll provide a replacement.

(If you refrigerated your fruiting block prior to use, it can take a little longer to produce mushrooms.)

Without adequate air exchange, oyster mushrooms will grow long stems and small caps while lion's mane will grow like branching coral instead of pom poms. On the other hand, too much air exchange will dry them out and stunt their growth. Here’s what to do: once the flush of mushrooms is well-formed (the size of ping pong ball), prop up the bottom of the tent. Alternatively, you can remove the tent completely for an hour or two each day.

Once oyster mushrooms stop doubling in size each day and their caps begin to curl up, it's time to harvest.

For lion's mane, it's time to harvest when the dangling spines are a few millimetres long, usually a week after the mushroom first sprouts from the "X." (If the mushroom begins to brown before the spines are a few millimetres long, it's also time to harvest).

For both species, simply twist at the base or cut with a knife to harvest.

This is totally normal. You can cut an "X" above the little mushrooms, also called "pins," to allow them to grow. Or you can do nothing and simply allow mushrooms to grow from your original "X."

You can expect at least one flush of mushrooms from your fruiting block, but, if you continue caring for it, you will likely get a second and third flush. After you've completed your first harvest, continue providing a humid environment to produce additional flushes.

The first flush will yield 200 to 300 grams. The following flushes will yield less as nutrients become depleted in the fruiting block.

Fruiting blocks make great compost. Simply break it up and add to soil.

For the best results, we recommend starting your fruiting block within a week of receiving it.

Though, it is possible to store blue oyster and lion's mane blocks with refrigeration for up to six weeks. If you refrigerate, it can take a bit longer for the block to produce mushrooms, so stay patient!

Pink oysters are a tropical species. Do not refrigerate them!

Fruiting blocks can crack or break during transport. Here's what to do: while the block is still in the bag, gently press the block back together. Make sure to give the block some time to re-establish itself before cutting it open to fruit (around 5 to 7 days).

If you've already cut the block open to fruit, you can still press it together.

Don't worry! Use our contact form or email us at hello@folkfungi.com and we'll provide support for your kit.